Resistor value in d.i.y. dev cart

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Resistor value in d.i.y. dev cart
by on (#97022)
Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum, but I've been a user of nesdev.com for some time now.

I am in the process of making a dev cartridge for some homebrew experiments. For simplicity I choosen an old Super Mario cart where I have desoldered the roms and replaced them with two eprom sockets. Unfortunately I managed to break the resistor situated between the two roms and I'm having a hard time decoding the value. As far as I can tell it is a 5 band resistor, but I don't think the value makes much sense (I get the color code brown black orange blue brown = 103M 1%, which I can't find anywhere).

Can someone please help me determine / tell me which value I should replace the broken resistor with?

EDIT: the pcb is similar to http://bootgod.dyndns.org:7777/profile.php?id=2357

/Jonatan

by on (#97023)
I don't think it's a resistor. I'm pretty sure it's a capacitor. Maybe the following table could help you.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aGoganDyFLs/ThBV5lWF4pI/AAAAAAAAAHk/EInkkWghASc/s640/lyly_16.bmp

by on (#97024)
SkinnyV wrote:
I don't think it's a resistor. I'm pretty sure it's a capacitor. Maybe the following table could help you.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aGoganDyFLs/ThBV5lWF4pI/AAAAAAAAAHk/EInkkWghASc/s640/lyly_16.bmp


There is a capacitor next to the CIC, but the one between the two roms looks like a resistor, but I guess it could be a capacitor. According to the colors it should be a 0.95-1.05 uF 100V - does that make sense?

by on (#97025)
Nintendo liked to use capacitors which looks like resistors. Don't be fooled.

It's a bypass capacitor, so it's value doesn't really matter - anything between 10nF and 100nF will do fine.

On which uses real resistors, you can tell the difference quite easily because they're twice larger than the capacitors that looks like resistors.

by on (#97028)
You can also tell it's very likely to be a capacitor because it's labelled C2 (C is for Cookie^WCapacitor).

by on (#97030)
Yeah I thought they were resistors too for some time...

For what it's worth it'll probably work fine without it. I'd still replace it when you're able to. But no need to put your project on hold until then.

by on (#97043)
Great. Thanks for all the help. I'll go a head and replace it with a new 1uF 100v (which I'm fresh out off, but I'm sure that my local component pusher is well supplied) and get on with my project.

Cheers :)