I'm actually working on doing some of this type of stuff right now with a related project I've posted up recently: All in one master dev cart.
It's hard for me to point you in the right direction without knowing your knowledge background.
First off you need to understand the basics of digital logic. ie, how gates, latches, flipflops, counters, and all that of stuff works. I'm guessing you have some level of understanding of this stuff.
With some base knowledge there you need to understand how bankswitching or "page turning" works on NES carts. Start off with the basic UNROM, CNROM and work your way up to MMC1 and MMC3. The best resource for this stuff is right here with our Wiki and other resources on nesdev.
Then you'll have to somehow pick up the skill of programing a CPLD or it's similar more complicated brother the FPGA. This isn't really a walk in the park. Including programming in a hardware description language (VHDL or Verilog). People typically pick up these skills in formal education, but there are enough resources out there you could learn it all from the web. It's just a little difficult in the begining because when you confused about the basics you don't have someone you can ask directly like you could in a lab at school.
I'd recommend starting off with some sort of CPLD development kit something similar to this:
http://www.altera.com/literature/ug/ug_maxv_cpld_dev_kit.pdf
I can't really recommend a good one you'll have to do more research on that yourself. But a kit like this has a step by step on how to program the CPLD and setup your circuit all put together for you. Then once you've got that down you could make up and test out your own reverse engineered mapper start with the simple ones before you try to tackle the MMC1. Then you could buy just the CPLD chip program it and slap it in on you cart board similar to what retrozone is selling you.
Have fun! You'll definitely learn alot through the process, assuming you don't quit after slamming your head against your desk when you get stuck and frustrated... But hey that's why this and other forums are out there for right?