This is my version of the Gameboy-like NES remote reset. It's a improved version over the 133Mhz's one: it uses no 555, less components, and cheaper and more common chips: just a 74HC595, a OR gate IC (eg.: 74HC32) and a NOT gate IC (eg.: 74HC04)
Schematic link: http://img823.imageshack.us/i/nesreset.png/
The full part list:
- U1: 74HC595
- U2: 74HC32
- U3: 74HC04
- D1/D2/D3: 1N4148
- R1: 100k (higher for longer reset)
- C1: 47uF (higher for longer reset), at least 5V
As you may notice, there are two versions: the active-high version (for use with the toaster NES) and the active-low version (for use with the Famicom, with the NES top-loader and probably with famiclones). I'VE TESTED THE NES VERSION ONLY. The Famicom version SHOULD work
Personally, I've used a 47uF capacitor and a 100k resistor for C1 and R1, but you can try with different values if you want the reset to last longer (for example, to go back to the PowerPak menu)
You can replace the 74HC04 with a transistor and three resistors if you are going to use the /RESET version, so you don't have to put there a full '04 to use just one of the NOT gates. You can play with different chips, like using chips from the CDxxxx series, or another type of diodes, etc... I'll leave that to you imagination
If you damage yourself, your NES or something else, it's your fault, not mine. I'm not responsible for any damage or loss caused by using or trying to build that circuit
The RESET output is connected to the output of RESET switch
EDIT: Detailed pictures:
Picture of it finally assembled:
Schematic link: http://img823.imageshack.us/i/nesreset.png/
The full part list:
- U1: 74HC595
- U2: 74HC32
- U3: 74HC04
- D1/D2/D3: 1N4148
- R1: 100k (higher for longer reset)
- C1: 47uF (higher for longer reset), at least 5V
As you may notice, there are two versions: the active-high version (for use with the toaster NES) and the active-low version (for use with the Famicom, with the NES top-loader and probably with famiclones). I'VE TESTED THE NES VERSION ONLY. The Famicom version SHOULD work
Personally, I've used a 47uF capacitor and a 100k resistor for C1 and R1, but you can try with different values if you want the reset to last longer (for example, to go back to the PowerPak menu)
You can replace the 74HC04 with a transistor and three resistors if you are going to use the /RESET version, so you don't have to put there a full '04 to use just one of the NOT gates. You can play with different chips, like using chips from the CDxxxx series, or another type of diodes, etc... I'll leave that to you imagination
If you damage yourself, your NES or something else, it's your fault, not mine. I'm not responsible for any damage or loss caused by using or trying to build that circuit
The RESET output is connected to the output of RESET switch
EDIT: Detailed pictures:
Picture of it finally assembled: