I am looking to buy premade cables since my time is very limited and my soldering skills are aweful. Please, some kind soul help me out. I really want to back up my aging FDS collection
Tomy of tototek sold me MGD and the cable for it. If the price is right, he may make the FDSLoadr cables, but I dunno.
I had to make my FDSLoadr cable because I couldn't find anyone either. It was a pain because the instructions are difficult to understand, but I eventually got it.
Sorry I can't help more! How much are you willing to pay? See most people won't make these because the payoff is not enough for the work involved.
Personally, I wish a USB version was made. The parallel one is a pain in the ass because I have to run it in pure DOS mode and it is very picky what machines it will work on.
Hey, Bunny, how about it?
-Rob
I had to make my FDSLoadr cable because I couldn't find anyone either. It was a pain because the instructions are difficult to understand, but I eventually got it.
Sorry I can't help more! How much are you willing to pay? See most people won't make these because the payoff is not enough for the work involved.
Personally, I wish a USB version was made. The parallel one is a pain in the ass because I have to run it in pure DOS mode and it is very picky what machines it will work on.
Hey, Bunny, how about it?
-Rob
I was thinking about the FDSLoader.
Brad Taylor documented his findings pretty well, and I would like to see a USB version as well. I'm going to guess that a modern micro controller could handle 96khz (or whatever it was).
Has anyone thought about how this could be done with like a USB AVR or PIC?
Brad Taylor documented his findings pretty well, and I would like to see a USB version as well. I'm going to guess that a modern micro controller could handle 96khz (or whatever it was).
Has anyone thought about how this could be done with like a USB AVR or PIC?
I am not sure how this will come off but... I don’t remember the directions but if I remember correctly all the fds loader cable is is a parallel cable and some wire on the other end. Anybody should be able to make one of those without much trouble, its not like its difficult soldering.
I think your underestimating yourself a bit, assumeing you do not have touretts.
I think your underestimating yourself a bit, assumeing you do not have touretts.
Yeah, I quickly found out that "solder cup" D-SUB connectors are really easy to work with, even with the cheapest $10 soldering iron.
I could build one, but like rbudrick said, between time, parts, and multiple shipments I imagine I would end up having to bill $60 to $100, which seems like a pretty expensive bit of work. Also, I don't have an FDS.
I could build one, but like rbudrick said, between time, parts, and multiple shipments I imagine I would end up having to bill $60 to $100, which seems like a pretty expensive bit of work. Also, I don't have an FDS.
Memblers wrote:
Yeah, I quickly found out that "solder cup" D-SUB connectors are really easy to work with, even with the cheapest $10 soldering iron.
I could build one, but like rbudrick said, between time, parts, and multiple shipments I imagine I would end up having to bill $60 to $100, which seems like a pretty expensive bit of work. Also, I don't have an FDS.
I could build one, but like rbudrick said, between time, parts, and multiple shipments I imagine I would end up having to bill $60 to $100, which seems like a pretty expensive bit of work. Also, I don't have an FDS.
if you charged me $60 to $100, I would buy it. Unless there was an idiot proof guide on how to do it because I am terrible with schematics.
On most of DSUB connectors I've seen, if you look closely the pin numbers are printed on it. If you follow the "DDU" column in fdsloader.txt it should be fine.
This shows how most of the soldering will be (it seriously helps to have something/someone hold it steady).
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
I figure a USB cable, spliced in, should be OK for a +5V source.
If you want me to do it though, there's one snag - I'll need a RAM adapter cart and/or the cable it uses. I could add an in-between connector to keep it usable for the RAM adapter still, but it may be kind of awkward.
This shows how most of the soldering will be (it seriously helps to have something/someone hold it steady).
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
I figure a USB cable, spliced in, should be OK for a +5V source.
If you want me to do it though, there's one snag - I'll need a RAM adapter cart and/or the cable it uses. I could add an in-between connector to keep it usable for the RAM adapter still, but it may be kind of awkward.
Nevermind about needing a RAM cart, I went ahead and bought one since I've long wanted to build an FDSLoader RAM cart interface thing (now I'm hoping it'll work OK with a PAL Famiclone, heh). Was $18, I was kinda surprised I found one right away. But then again I guess a lot of people are probably trashing their disk drives instead of fixing them.
So I'll have a spare disk connector if you need one, or I can build the adapter since I'll have the main part now.
So I'll have a spare disk connector if you need one, or I can build the adapter since I'll have the main part now.
I just got my MGD1 to PC cable and FDSloadr RAM cable from tototek. They are readily available and a great option for those like me who lack the time and tech skills to make one.