I'm using a famicom av. I solder a 47k resistor on my adaptor from pin 51 (the audio pins on the famicom side lead there) to pin 54 However for some reason this is not working. Can anybody help me?
edit: video on how to do it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsfUviciKxs
Bridging it worked altough it totally drowns out everything.
edit: so ya now the problem is.....what resistor should I use. I dont have a pot ready. I suspect the reason it doesnt work with the same value is that supposedly exp sound is louder on the av famicom. Anyone wanna help out?
Jeroen wrote:
Bridging it worked altough it totally drowns out everything.
edit: so ya now the problem is.....what resistor should I use. I dont have a pot ready. I suspect the reason it doesnt work with the same value is that supposedly exp sound is louder on the av famicom. Anyone wanna help out?
edit2: bridging doesnt seem to work now either...altough it could've been a cold joint. But maybe something inside the av fami fried. I dont see how that is possible though since I have normal audio and the extra audio is mixed inside the cart :-/ .
Well turns out I had the wrong pin so the audio in stil works. Problem reallly is I get either the expansion sound or the famicom sound....theres no "in between" Anyone have an idea why?
I'm pretty sure mixing the two on a Famicom requires more than just a resistor, though I know virtually nothing about electronics or audio circuitry so I'm in the same boat as you.
Ok I think I got this figured out......just need values. Cut the bridged pins on your adaptor. Where the audio enters the cart you put a resistor, connect this to the other pin. Now use a resistor to connect pin 54 (or 51) to the point where the audio enters the adaptor. I suspect we stil have to use a 47k resistor for the powerpak output. Now just the one bridging the two pins.
Heres some irc goodies
<@LordNLptp> you should put for a powerpak to fami adapter:
<@LordNLptp> 15k with 10nf cap in series, the 15k resitor attached to the audio in pin of the cart (where the fami audio comes in)
<@LordNLptp> then connect to that the powerpak pin/exp pin 6 (you MAY need to put the powerpak pin/exp pin 6 through a similar resistor-then-10nf-capactor thing that the audio in pin goes through, see mmc5.3 pin))
<@LordNLptp> finally run both to a 10k resistor, and run the out of that to the audio out pin
<@LordNLptp> you may need to do some value tweaking with the resistors later to make everything play at the appropriate volume
<@loopy_> yeah... I don't know if powerpak's output level matches mmc5
<@LordNLptp> but 15k-10nf for powerpak and 15k-10nf for fami audio, then a 10k between that and the fami aud out pin
<@LordNLptp> replace the 15ks with 20k rotary trimpots and tweak to your hearts desire
<@LordNLptp> the 10k should be correct though
<@LordNLptp> since both the nes and fami circuits need it
<@LordNLptp> it MIGHT not really be needed, but i don't think it will hurt
<@LordNLptp> what you do need are those two capacitors
<@LordNLptp> those are the real key to the whole mixing circuit
however I couldnt get the in and out properly cut so thats a bit of a problem (couldnt get them cut on my adaptor)
Bleh...I can't follow that.
I don't suppose a quick visual diagram is too much to ask?
Ok heres what I understood of the instructions
remember you might have to pump the powerpak output to a similair reistor cap setup (and its probably better to use a 20k pot instead of a 15k resistor
)
Just got a message from lord. Its probably better to put a 10k-15k resistor on the pin leading to pin 45. (optional but probably better)
edit: the caps shouldnt be polarized either but ceramic. Sorry wil update the schematic later on.
Maybe better:
Talked to Kevin Horton (aka kevtris) He said that it should work with just bridging pin 45 and 46 with a 10k resistor and having a pot/resistor from the powerpak down to pin 46 (the one where the sound goes back into the fami)
SUCCES! I used a 10k resistor solder over pin 45 and 46 (after cutting their connection) and used a 100k pot between the powerpak audio out pin and pin 46 on the famicom
Yay! That's nice and simple, and I have the parts!
...aside from the pot, that is. Is it really necessary, or could I just go with a fixed resistor value?
Well it only works if my pot is turned from here to here. Otherwise one of the channels takes over. If my multimeter had batterys I'd measure.
edit: btw I didnt use a 10k resistor but rather a 12k (had that laying round and couldnt find my 10k's) so for future reference in case you use the same resistor value as me.......might be a good idea to use 12k. (so the audio is evenly mixed if you use my values)
edit2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ0xF_1_Gq8 Video time
Your video glitches might be caused by crosstalk, you could try insolating your wires a bit more.
its only a tiny part of the screen though. And only a certain part. If it were crosstalk more parts would probably be affected.
edit: just checked emulator had the exact same glitches. I'm confident it should be that way.
Well I just measured the resistance of the pot and apparantly its waaaaaaaaaaaay to low. Kev said I probably got the wrong pin so i'm switching them later to do some more tests.
Ok back from testing. This seemed to sound correct to me but make up your own mind. You have to cut pin 45 and 46. Put a 10k resistor over it. (I used a 12k) Then solder a 10k resistor from pin 45 (counting from the left) to pin 54 on the nes connector. (using a 12k resistor it seemed 12k was the correct value to my ears) Thats all there is to it
edit: I recorded it
http://www.2shared.com/file/4521321/a6152cf/cv3.html
give me some feedback wil ya?
That sounds just like my modified NES. I think you got it.
The case even fits back on its awesome!
So, as in the other topic, it's still recommend for 47K resistance for the NES expansion pins?
I'll try to compare your wav to my NES which has a 100K maybe, or else I'll compare after I remove it and put in a 47K as I have that available now. CV3 sounded off-balance to me with the 100k.
This has nothing to do with the nes. Stil use a 47k for that.
In short:
Code:
pin 45 (audio in to cart from famicom) -> 10k resitor -> pin 46 (audio out of cart to famicom output)
powerpak audio pin (72 pin connector 'exp pin 6') -> (optional 10uf ceramic capacitor, see below) -> pin 46
If you end up with DC clicking/saturation problems with sound when low notes are played on the powerpak, place a 10uf capacitor between the powerpak pin and pin 46
LN
Only you should lead it to pin 45 (counting from left to right) When I tried pin 46 it worked but at like 500 ohms. Which according to kev was waaaaaaaaaaaay to low. on pin 45 it was 12k (in my case cause I bridged pin 45 and 46 with a 12k)
Thanks for the vid. Makes more sense to me now too. I wish there was a vid on how to do the equivalent mod for a NES (no FC or adapter needed).
-Rob
There is one by one of my friends "robbyrubish" or something.....I could make one for you to if you want.
Jeroen wrote:
There is one by one of my friends "robbyrubish" or something.....I could make one for you to if you want.
Sure, that'd be cool. It'd be nice not to have to ruin an adapter then reconvert it with another adapter just to get the sound on an NES. Thanks ahead of time, if you could!
-Rob
I meant a video on how to do it. But a friend on my youtube channel robbyrubish already has a video on it. Sorry if I was unclear. If I were to "make one for you" you'd have to send me your entire nes!
edit: as in do the mod.
Yes just to say this is totally awesome. So it's definitely possible to do extra audio on the NES without a screwdrived and that's a great thing ! (I did this with a famicom game but with a screwdriver).
Also you'd want to add a weak pulldown resistor on the extra audio pin, because else it may act like an antenna and add garbage noise when a normal game is plugged. My NES always makes weird sounds because of that and I regret I haven't done this.
Wait are you talking about nes or famicom? How do you mean no screwdriver.
and what is the resistance value needed (in ohms)?
For the adaptor (that goes into the famicom) on an av famicom I had two 10k (well in my case 12 should be 10 though) resistors.
Oh I didn't follow exactly, but weren't possible to have audio with the bottom connector, that is acessible without any screwdriver ? Isn't that what that guy did ?
Oh I only have a NES, a FC is of no use because it's NTSC and there is no NES2 released here in europe (if there is any they are extremely uncommon).
I did this mod myself. Its for playing the audio on a famicom. I once read about a guy using alligator clips on the bottom port of his nes though (and it worked) you couuld try that. 2 alligator clips and a resistor in between.
edit: and if you mean the robbyrubish guy. he did it by SOLDERING a resistor in his nes. (and just so you know I live in europe to
)
Oh so that was a famicom, not a NES 2 ?
And you use a 72 to 60 adaptator for the powerpack ?
Can the powerpack do extra audio on a NES ? If it can on a famicom it definitely can on a NES (with appropriate modification).
Yes it can.....and if you download the fds mapper from loopys site it tells you how (in a file)
Jeroen wrote:
I meant a video on how to do it. But a friend on my youtube channel robbyrubish already has a video on it. Sorry if I was unclear. If I were to "make one for you" you'd have to send me your entire nes!
edit: as in do the mod.
Right, I know, a video, exactly. I didn't mean do the mod for me, lol. But yeah, if you could point me to the video, that would rule. Thanks!
-Rob
Awesome! Thanks, Jeroen!
-Rob
I have tried this mod with only partial success.
My results are that games that use normal NES audio sound fine.
Games that use Expansion Audio, (CV3J, Gimmick), only the expansion audio can be heard. The regular audio channels cannot be heard.
Here is what I did:
I cut the pins 45 + 46 on the Famicom my converter. I soldered a 10K resistor between them. I soldered a 10K resistor to pin 54 on the NES side of the converter and ran a wire from the resistor to pin 46 on the Famicom converter.
I believe that if I ran the wire to pin 45, I would hear no sound. What am I doing wrong? I am using a Famicom AV, should that matter.
In this post, pin 45 is the audio in, pin 46 is the audio out. I counted from right to left, as did Nintendo.
I have 10uf capacitators to use. Should I use them and if so, how (which way does the polarity go)
Sounds like you got the wrong pin. (on the famicom cart edge) try the other one. With this resistance only one should work (altough both worked with a pot but at different values)
edit: as I mentioned in my video I counted from left to right. You said you didnt. That should explain it. I'm also using an av famicom
