Does anyone except me still have problems with their PowerPak after resistorfixing? I got mine back from bunnyboy yesterday but it still has same glitches (however I guess the problems decreased with like 75%). It's still very visible in SMB2 & 3 (PAL) for example.
Which are the glitchiest NTSC games on the PowerPak? So far I haven't installed the resistors. The only problems I've had are ones that are probably due to mappers that haven't been properly implemented. Maybe I'm just not noticing the glitches.
Lloyd Gordon wrote:
Which are the glitchiest NTSC games on the PowerPak? So far I haven't installed the resistors. The only problems I've had are ones that are probably due to mappers that haven't been properly implemented. Maybe I'm just not noticing the glitches.
Well, I've mostly tried PAL ROMs but SMB3 did look terrible on my console..
oRBIT2002 wrote:
Well, I've mostly tried PAL ROMs but SMB3 did look terrible on my console..
I have 3 PAL nes units and ofter resistorfixing my PowerPak I still get glitching on 2 of them but on the third it works perfectly. Ironic as that one just happens to be in the worst condition of all 3.
Is this a common issue on PAL systems? Perhaps stronger resistors are needed on PAL than on NTSC? I wonder what kind of resistor bunnyboy is using...
The resistance needed seems to vary per board revision. IIRC I went with 120 ohms after the recommended 500 ohms stopped it from functioning. It'd be interesting to see which values work best on which models.
After I fixed mine with 100 ohms resistors I haven't seen a single glitch. Except for a few mapper-related glitches. On some MMC3 games the scanline counter does not work very well. I have an NTSC top-loader and a PAL-M (same timing as NTSC) front-loader. I haven't tried it on my famiclones (3 of them) yet.
tokumaru wrote:
After I fixed mine with 100 ohms resistors I haven't seen a single glitch. Except for a few mapper-related glitches. On some MMC3 games the scanline counter does not work very well. I have an NTSC top-loader and a PAL-M (same timing as NTSC) front-loader. I haven't tried it on my famiclones (3 of them) yet.
I use 100 ohms as well and have tried it in both of my front loaders (one of which worked fine before the resistor fix), a top loader, an A/V famicom, and an original famicom. So far, it's working great!
I had problems at first, though i was just careless and didn't test continuity when i first cut the traces. I backtracked and fixed all the traces, and after reinstalling the resistor pack, everything seems flawless now.
Like others have said though, it could be particular to the NES hardware. Do you have another console you can use for testing?
I've got a brand new connector in my NES, could it affect this in someway perhaps?
Of course, normal game cartridges works fine.
A newer connector will have less inherent resistance than a worn/corroded/dirty connector.
Would be interesting to hear bunnyboys comments on this issue. Perhaps the 100 ohms resistors isn't good enough for some consoles.
It may be a good idea to check the connection everybody can make mistakes perhaps a trace of 2 was not cut all the way, or they managed to bridge themselves after being cut or perhaps one of the resistors built into the component are defective
My PowerPak has got a resistorpack so I have no idea on how to see if the traces are correctly cut.
Mmmmmm maybe someone should open theirs (with the faults after resistor fix) and put something like 150ohms pots in instead. Then turn them all the way. then gradually trim them down till all glitches are gone?