Anyone have the wiring for m27c160 chips

So I found out the hard way that a tlsrom (Mapper 118) board does not behave the same as a tlrom (mapper 4) board. They both contain a mmc3 mapper though.

I did not catch the mapper 118 in the beginning, I was only looking at the mmc3.

In my searching I have found this.

"The CHR A17 line connects directly to CIRAM A10 line instead of MMC3's CIRAM A10 output, to compensate for the MMC3's lack of single-screen mirroring"

http://wiki.nesdev.com/w/index.php/INES_Mapper_118

I seem to be missing something as I have traced these lines and they do not appear to be directly connected. I even do a continuity test on the 2 and nothing.

I have used this document for the mapper pinouts.

http://nesdev.icequake.net/rom.txt

I assume when looking at the mapper and the lettering right side up on lower left is a circle in chip corner that that marks pin 1. So according to what I am reading mapper pin 12 should have a direct connection to mapper pin 4 but they don't have continuity.

This is driving me insane. Maybe this board can't be used.

No, those two pins should not be connected.

Here is a slightly better MMC3 pinout, and here are the cartridge connector pinouts. You only need to be concerned with MMC3 pins 10 and 12, and the pin for CIRAM A10 on the cartridge connector.

To convert TLSROM to TLROM, you need to disconnect MMC3 pin 12 from CIRAM A10 and connect MMC3 pin 10 instead. If your game has 256KB of CHR-ROM, you'll also need to connect MMC3 pin 12 to CHR-ROM A17.

Ok so I cut the trace from mmc3 pin 12 to the corresponding cartridge pin CIRAM A10 (15 over from left to right). I then soldered a wire from CIRAM A10 to mmc3 pin 10.

My new chr is indeed 256 so I ran a wire from mmc3 pin 12 to pin 30 of my am27c020 as pin 30 is A17 on the chr. Still does not work correctly.

Here is a pic.



...

Just wondering if I should even bother wasting my time using these chips on snes carts?

With 27c160's? They are the only way you will get more than 1mb with a single chip unless you use TSOP. 27c160's are great
cause all you have to do is shift over 1 address line and use D15 as A0. D0-D7 are used and the rest of the data lines you just
float. By hand it's many wires unless you have an adapter board designed and printed.

Hey, this is another way you can do it:


"No rewiring required", no address line re-ordering and it work with 27C322, for example.
But certainly it's cheaper to use a 27C160 with /BYTE pin and reorder the address lines.

Not only is it cheaper to use to 27c160 but also less wires needed.

But is it cheaper to use one 27C322 or two 27C160?

A 27C160 will cost more simply because it offers byte mode. Cost more than twice as much as 27C322. So making that circuit will lower your cost in the long run. Because you get twice as much memory from just one chip.

Well at least 2 people have posted who know the wiring now. Could I please have a diagram or is it top secret

How about I try and someone help me on what I don't understand?

It's simple.



The /BYTE pin is used to select the chip mode. While in 8 bit mode, the pin "D15" is used as A0, A0 through A19 are shifted by one so A0 becomes A1, A1 becomes A2 and so on.

D8-D14 are left unconnected.

See, no mystery. But you can't do that with the 27C322 because it has no /BYTE pin. You need the circuit I posted for that one.

Oh wow, I had no idea that happened. Ok so now before I post my wiring does swap bin still apply to this chip?

NM wasabi does not give the option to swap bin anything but a 27c801. I'll see what I can come up with on this new info.

So basically the whole chips still needs to be rewired anyhow. After moving the pins like you said you are left with this.

The idea with the two extra TTL chips make it so you can put bigger chips without any rewiring.

But if you're not going to ever need more than 2MB, yeah that's about it. Remember, you leave Q8 to Q14 unconnected.

EDIT: And Q = D

Thank you. It works now. I had the ground to OE and OE on board to nothing.

Quick question here. I dont do SNES repros nor do i even own an SNES but how is an SNES considered 16 bit when its data bus for its mask roms are 8 bit?

Internally the SNES CPU perform math operations in 16 bit units.

The MC68000 inside the Mega Drive/Genesis have 16(sixteen) 32bit (thirty-two) registers yet it breaks 32bit calculations in two 16bit steps so that's why it's a 16 bit CPU.

And the Atari Jaguar has a 64-bit data bus DO THE MATH. But that's about the only 64-bit thing about it.

Ha! Yeah the jag was not as good as it should have been, but it is a badass looking system and some games were pretty cool.

I'm trying to learn all this stuff but I swear this is like learning a foreign language when you come into it w/a complete lack of any of it and I mean zero with a capital z. I have had many times now where I just had to walk away and come back days later.

My main thing right now is comprehending this.

The 74LS00 is used for address decoding. It's connection in the PCB is as follows:

ROM #1 /OE is enabled when SNES A21 is low and SNES ROM /OE is low.
ROM #2 /OE is enabled when SNES A21 is high and SNES ROM /OE is low.

I want to know what this low and high means. I am trying to understand the difference between a mad-1 and this 74LS00.

More so I have a game that doesn't work unless you run a wire from mask rom 2 on a SHVC-BJ0N-01 board hole a20 to pin 5 of the 74LS00 which is A21. However running it on a board SHVC-BJ1M-10 w/the mad 1 pin 13 "a21" needs to be lifted and a wire ran from it to the rom 2 a20.

Still trying to figure out what exactly is going on, I am now fairly sure it has to do w/the rom1 rom2 being enabled thing.

I'll try to define terms.


Low means the signal's voltage is close to ground (0 V). It represents a binary 0.
High means the signal's voltage is close to the supply voltage (+5V in the NES and Super NES). It represents a binary 1.
Active low means a signal is considered turned on when it is low. The name of an active low signal will begin with a slash, such as /OE.
/OE means an output enable that is active low. Chip enables on the NES and Super NES are active low more often than not.
/CE or /CS is a chip enable (also called chip select) signal that is active low. Both /CE and /OE need to be low for a chip to send data to the CPU. The difference between a chip enable and an output enable is that when chip enable is high, the chip uses less power, but the chip reacts faster to output enable going low than to chip enable going low.
A KiB (kibibyte) is 1024 bytes, or 2^10 bytes.
A MiB (mebibyte) is 1048576 bytes, or 2^20 bytes.
LoROM describes a memory mapping in Super NES Game Paks that does not connect A15 on the cart edge to the ROM. This means each 64 KiB of address space contains only 32 KiB of data. The other half is used for input and output ports and RAM inside the system.
HiROM describes a memory mapping in Super NES Game Paks that connects A15 on the cart edge to the ROM. This means each 64 KiB of address space contains 64 KiB of data. The terms LoROM and HiROM are distantly related to the canonical state of A22 when accessing ROM.

When SNES A21 is low, that means it's trying to read the first 2 MiB of address space. When SNES A21 is high, that means it's trying to read the second 2 MiB of address space. (2^21 = 2097152, and 2097152 bytes is 2 MiB.) On LoROM, each 2 MiB of address space contains 1 MB of data. On HiROM, each 2 MiB of address space contains 2 MiB of data.

Awesome, thanks for that.

Wow I just got this I think. Due to you writing "Snes A21". The snes system board is pulling information to A21 on the system board. That A21 was confusing the hell out of me, it never clicked to me to think outside of the game board/eproms.

So if I am reading this correctly by attaching a wire to hole 1 a20 since it is close to the +5v end "hole 36" that results in the signal for snes A21 to be high thus enabling rom #2. With no wire the system is trying to pull data from the low part of address space which since I split the rom, eprom 1 is the low part and eprom 2 is the high part! Since the information it needs is on eprom 2 snes a21 needs to be set high to get that information that is on eprom 2. Does that mean since a21 and a22 are also close, that running the wire to any of those said 3 said holes would achieve the same results?

What if you did a direct connection to hole 36 +5v would that be too much and cause damage?

If the rom is not split and a bigger chip was used this rewiring would be irrelevent?

Like I said before, the A lines are simply a binary representation of the physical memory address the CPU is attempting access to.

You trying to understand what is going on with that mindset (facing how the cartridge works as math equations) will have a big effect on how you see this "repro making" thing. Meaning that odd things will no longer surprise you or make you feel clueless. You will also have no difficulty understanding the different designs of cartridges and hardware.

My advice is you try to read a bit on boolean logic and binary math. It will help you a ton at understanding what you're doing.

Yeah, I sometimes get into the wrong thought process and nothing clicks. I actually read tepples post about 5 times, not to mention that rom 1 rom 2 like 30 times before and it never clicked to associate the system itself to what was going on.

I was stuck in the thought process of correlating everything on the game board to the roms/eproms. I will def. be looking up the Boolean logic and binary math. I did take some programming classes long ago but only for a year and it was more VB type stuff. It was all gui nothing real in depth on the component level. A little code here and there but it is very different.

Just wondering what I am missing here. I figured I would try doing 2 of these chips together but it didn't work lol.

I took a file 2.5MB and expanded it to 4MB (Lunar Expand). I then used wasabi to do just a plain 2MB split on the file, nothing else. I then programmed both 2MB parts onto two m27c160 chips. I rerouted pin 13 or OE for chip 2 to pin 11 on the 74ls00 decoder.

Mind you I use these chips to make 2MB games w/no problem. Just confused on why this didn't work. Do I need a multiplexor like a 74HCT139?

I was assuming the onboard decoder would be fine as I used a 2 mask rom pcb. Chip 1 is already routed properly for OE to 74ls00 pin 8.

I did notice chip 2 programmed super fast as compared to chip 1 which makes sense as it is really only 1/4 of the data as the rest is just padding.

OK, I just made Lufia 2 on two 27c160 chips. The game is 2560KB expanded to 4096KB and then split into two 2048KB files. I lifted pins 4, 12, 13 on mad chip. I wired pin 12 to a22, and pin 13 to a21, left pin 4 hanging. I then soldered pin 1 of mad to eprom 2 pin 13 OE and pin 16 of mad to eprom 1 pin 13 OE.

The game finally worked... somewhat lol. It now just resets. I cut the traces to mad pin 9 which is the reset and jumpered the broken connection but that didn't work. My thoughts are because I used 2 chips I still need a decoder. I was hoping I didn't but I think I do. Would I be correct in that assumption.

The other idea is the sram is causing copyright protection via the cic chip because splitting the file and rewiring the mad caused something it did not like.

I have an original Lufia 2 which uses a 1A3M-30 pcb which is exactly the same as the donor I used.

Why would you modify the MAD-1 for 2x27c160? The game does NOT exceed 4MB...

Lufia doesn't have a copy protection.

Because of what this says. It did not work at all w/out modding the mad-1. At least this way it does work, but resets after the 2nd splash screen.

I unfortunately never had a proper education on all this stuff so I am always learning the hard tedious way LOL.

Here is information I came across on both the 74LS00 and the Mad-1 decoder chips.

Based off that information the Mad-1 chip when used w/2 roms instead of one has to be rewired differently. It will not work w/2 roms the way they are connected via snes pcb's as those donors are configured at factory to accommodate 1 mask rom.

Unless this information is incorrect?



...

I have no idea what you're doing but there is really NO need to modify the MAD-1 for just 2x27c160.
It cannot be that hard to follow a picture's schematic.

Are you even using the proper donor for Lufia? SHVC-1A3M-XX?

The picture you posted is just a different pinout between LoROM and HiROM for the MAD-1 and therefore absolutely uselsss for what you're doing.

I've done many type of repros with various ICs and all worked and I never touched the MAD-1 in any way unless I used 2x29F033 or more to allow ExHiROM mapping to save properly, but that's it.


EDIT: What pinout are you following? What are you doing exactly that it's not working?
Did you even bother trying the schematic I posted?

The pin-out you posted is the pin out I used initially. Yes I use the right donor. My tester board is a lo-rom 64k save game. I said a few post back " I have an original Lufia 2 which uses a 1A3M-30 pcb which is exactly the same as the donor I used."

You need to read what's under the picture. I understand the pictures are just the pin-outs , however the important stuff is written under it.

It says: pin 13 is connected to A21 when rom has 2MB in size (a20 when it is 1MB)
pin 12 is connected to next address line after 13 when mad is connected to 2 eproms.
pin 4 is NC for 2 eproms and instead pin 1 and 16 are used.

Therefore I rewired accordingly pin 13 to A21 instead of A20 which is what stock wiring is, and pin 12 then goes to a22.

I originally put in my tester board and soldered 1 and 16 to OE of each rom and blocked the connection to pin 4 mad and the game did not work by just doing that small rewiring of the OE pins.

I got nothing that way then I rewired mad pins 12 and 13 as the directions from that image says and the game works but resets.

Just to be clear we are talking about Lufia 2 not Lufia.

I did originally try mickey to Donald magical adventure 3 which is a hi rom game and I tested that on a hi rom donor and got nothing, but I am inclined to believe if I rewire the mad It will work.

EDIT: Is there a problem w/me stacking both eproms on top of each other and soldering the legs together all but pin 13 of each the OE outs and rewiring them appropriately?

Err...what? This is not what my pinout said. You posted the MAD-1 image....

Anyway, if you followed the schematic I posted earlier (with 2x27c160) the game is going to work 100% without any other rewiring.
Lufia or Lufia 2, both are LoROM with 64kb SRAM. So it doesn't matter.

I won't bother anymore, you obviously should start to learn with simple games first using 27c801 or understand how it works. It can't be too hard to solder a 27c160 when you have a clear picture of how to do it.

EPROM D0-D7 -> SNES D0-D7
EPROM D15 -> SNES A0
EPROM A0 -> SNES A1
EPROM A1 -> SNES A2
...
EPROM A19 -> SNES A20
EPROM BYTE -> GND
EPROM /OE1 -> MAD-1 Pin 16
EPROM /OE2 -> MAD-1 Pin 1
EPROM /CE -> SNES /CE
EPROM VCC .> VCC
EPROM GND -> GND


Stacking EPROMs isn't a problem as long as the proper pins are connected or left unconnected.

Why are you so condescending? I have made plenty of games thank you. I have made games for nes, snes, genesis, master system, and jaguar. I have made snes game on 27c801, 2 MB games on 27c801 split into a 2 rom donor and I have made at least 300 snes games using these m27c160 chips.

I have the wiring, I have for over a year now been making 2MB games using these chips. I made a video so you can again tell me my wiring is bad even though I prove a 2MB game on a M27c160 chip works. The wiring is NOT the problem. Lufia 2 stacked does not work w/just rewiring the OE pins.

https://youtu.be/LG37nJz1z0Y

The problem is not that they're stacked but rather they're not even soldered together. Connections are not given most of the time. Solder them together or find another way to connect them properly to the board.

And what is that adapter board with the ZIF socket?

It is an adapter board I designed and had made over a year ago. I really don't see why they need to be soldered as I tested every pin on the top and it has continuity to bottom. The whole purpose of the tester boards is to make sure the chips work before I hard solder them. Getting the solder off those chips to take them apart in order to reuse them will take forever.

I already had a set soldered together of a dif. games that did not work. I however did just solder them together and got the exact same results on both tester boards.

I did the same long time ago, not soldering them together but checking for continuity. While my multi meter told me there's connection the SNES didn't load the game until I soldered the stacked EPROMs together except /OE pins. It was only a suggestion.

Anyway, have you had success with other 2x27c160 on your adapter or even just 27c160?

I'm really out of ideas as 2x27c160 is a "simple" task stacking 2 working, successfully programmer EPROMs together but leaving /OE and connect ROM1 /OE to MAD-1 Pin 16 and ROM2 /OE to MAD-1 Pin 01.

Perhaps get a fresh SHVC-1A3M-XX board (36 pin MaskROM), desolder the original MaskROM, solder the 2x27c160 stacked via wire to the SNES MaskROM as shown in the schematic earlier. Tell me if that works.

I just got it working. In that picture his information is wrong at least for this game. It states for pin 12 in HIROM carts it is connected to cart pin 47. Well cart pin 47 is basically A21. Therefore I started trying things just for the hell of it.

I took pin 12 and put back to ground and that gave me the same results as connecting it to pin 22 so I knew the problem had to be pin 12 of the mad.

I then decided to wire it as if it was a HIROM and put both pin 12 and pin 13 (13 was already there) to A21 or cart pin 47 and it worked! It bypassed the start screen and went straight to the game.

Wish I understood what exactly was happening here rather than figuring out the way I did.

Unless you guys are looking to support this I suggest you stop sharing info with this guy.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/GamesNDecals/items

http://www.ebay.com/sch/icemanxp300/m.h ... 7675.l2562

It's sick and 100 percent against what this forum stands for.

(edited for clarity)

If these accusations are true, report icemanxp300 to the ESA so that the game publishers can VeRO his @$$.

Yes, they are 100 percent factual.

Wow, thanks for the info. Going to watch out first who to help, I guess.

Don't worry I made the same mistake. You take it for granted sometimes that your peers are like minded.

Nintendo2600 man what is your problem. Yes I openly admit that is me. I have never denied it.

First let me just say Nintendo2600 is Shawn on atariage and he does the exact same thing. Hypocrites kill me. When I first started to do this he got so mad at me because I wouldn't give him madden donors I had. He told me what I was doing was fine because I marked my games as reproduction, not that that matters.

I can link just as many threads on atariage about him making repros as well. When I first started he made a thread to cut me out saying he would sell any repro for $10 less than anybody else. This was after I refused to give him my donor carts I had stocked up on.

Most recently he is upset I purchased 200 jag carts fro $1 each plus shipping and I have them listed for $12.99 shipped on ebay.

I am clear on my intentions and what they were a year and a half ago when I was fed up with seeing fake little samsons sell on ebay for $200 and being sold for real. My intentions was to sell reproductions at a low cost and marked to try and stop the flooding of unmarked games. People are selling them all over at least this way they are marked and people know what they are buying.

I understand people disagree with this. I did too. I am a long time collector and have one of the biggest collections around but at the end of the day fakes killed this hobby and I decided it was not worth the hassles to try and collect the harder to find games.

Shawn is upset because the recent influx of Chinese knock-offs he has not been selling many games and even made a thread about how he is getting out of it.

At any rate I take full account for my actions and I do not deny them and make other people look bad for the same thing I do.

I am sorry if I misled anybody on this site. I guess I mis-understood "Blatant piracy" rules above. I seen people post threads about making games such as snow brothers and ducktales 2 and such. I assumed if it was over 10 years old it was fine. I as well did not advertise my games on here as per the rules. I do not do homebrews, I am not into taking profits from others hard work.

Nope, I was pissed cause you went on about having tons of them and I had helped you learn a few tricks and I said if you
wanted to return the favor (cause you said you wish you could return the favor) you could sell me some of them. You said you had a pretty much endless supply so I didn't think it would matter. You wouldn't which is was your call of course. I had not learned that you are out for #1 and only #1 at that time so ya it was a real pisser.



Yep I sure did, cause you only want to exploit the fans of the hobby, not take part in it for anything other than financial gain. As proven when you said you quit your day job just to sell repro pirate carts. This was after you lost your mind insulting myself and another friend of mine for not selling you adapter pcbs for lower than cost for you to make bank on.



Yep cause again you said you had no interest in the Atari Jaguar until you got in on those carts so you could make them into rare retail game repros and sell them for $35 a pop. And when you found out those $1 pcbs where not all 2 chip and some where 4 you decided to flip them on ebay and think nobody on the forum would give a damn cause you said you where selling for $7 cheaper than another guy who is just as scummy as you are.



Bull. You are doing it cause you saw an opening to make $$$ and all you had to do was bug everyone else to teach you how to do even the most trivial electronics work.



Nope, I said it's not worth my time to do so as the Chinese are selling them for next to nothing and I couldn't be bothered anymore.



You are not the same as most in the hobby. You are here for money and money only. You're not a programmer, your not an electronics enthusiast, you are just a pirate looking to cash in. A real jerk of one at that. I actually question if you even like video
games or if this is just all about money and nothing else to you.

I'm sure people here really do not care about this drama. It is true I quit my job as I hated it. I did not quit my job solely expecting to make a career out of selling repros. Yes I did see a profit from them and bounced on it. I resell lots of stuff and adding repros into it was enough to let me quit a job I hated.

The reason I even thought about repros was NOT the money though. I had thought about making them for years prior to that. I wanted to be able to put different hacks and such on carts that other people did not want to do for me, such as the Super Mario World Intrigue hack.

The deciding factor that pushed me into investing a $1000 of my own money and months of research to make these was the fake little Samson's selling for $200. I seen ebay auctions selling Megaman x3 super famicom along with a brand new NTSC label tossed on a NTSC shell. They were doing stuff like this and it pissed me off.

I did not flip over the jaguar carts being 4 chips instead of 2, yes I was disappointed in it. I resell for a living and yes when I seen the jag carts for $1 I seen opportunity and bought them. The guy was selling over 1000 carts and ended up selling AL most of them. He has them in the AA store for $10 each but that's ok?

Here is how I flipped. Go ahead and read it.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260667 ... try3689269

The guy listed them for sale for reprogramming. He made it min 50 order, who do you think is going to buy 50+ Come on. Something tells me you are mad you missed out on the opportunity.

Why don't you go report yourself for doing the same thing. Then go and report everyone else who sells repros. Retrousb, gametech, all the other ebay and etsy sellers. Don't even say that because they sell famicom translations and such that that is different. It is not. Copyright is copyright there is no good to copy bad to copy. It's all the same.

As far as me having no interest in the hobby. Here is my collection posted in 2012 and updated in 2013 two years before I even decided to get into reproduction making.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/193595 ... try2754794

Where's all your games? I have been in this hobby since the 1980's when I got my first nes and hardcore collecting since 2006. I ended up selling alot of my nes my collection back in 2004 and started rebuilding back in 2006. I currently have somewhere around 625 original released nes games in my collection. No I don't collect rare games anymore that part of this hobby was killed for me.

This constant harassment by you on all my threads is getting old. Yes I know you were likely one of the ebay sellers getting $200 for your fake shit and are now mad your lucrative market had crashed. Repros have dropped across the board not just for you. Look at Gametech he has cut his prices almost in half.

Honestly I am happy the market for repros has crashed and I don't care if people buy them or not. Just like my jaguar carts I have the listing up for competition and to ensure prices stay low. Although now china has bombarded the market That's a no longer a concern hence this thread being a direct extension of your lack of being able to sell your games.

Hypocrite leave me alone.

RetroUSB is out of the repro business now, with the exception of NWC and its sequels. I'd be interested to see what comes from reporting RetroUSB, given the litigious reputation of all three companies featured on NWC (Nintendo, Square Enix, and Tetris).

Oh, how about the die cut labels? When you where asked about them you said you won't share any info about them correct? What shape would you be in if all the people who have shared info with you gave you the same response? You want everyone to help you but refuse to do the same. This shows what kind of person you are and your track record shows you are only getting worse. You as a person is the main problem here. The fact that you don't notice it as a problem is even worse.

I find the laches thing very interesting.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laches_(equity)

It has always boggled my mind why for the last 10 years (give or take) people were making repros, hacks and so on and Nintendo never did anything about them. Then I read it is less about Nintendo but more about the publishers and such of those games many of which don't even exist anymore.

Some people say they just don't care. I really don't get how companies make all these after market systems and such if copyrights never expire. Then you have people who make homebrews from ports of different systems (not saying I know of any on this site) and say they have copyright over a game they altered in which they had zero right to alter in the first place.

The entire reproduction market infuriated me for years honestly and I finally just said to hell with it. I sat and watched and watched and nothing ever happened to them.

Then toss in licensing and such and that's a whole different level on it's own. Not that I have anything against homebrews but majority are not licensed as afaik. Imagine if they came out with a Yobo switch tomorrow or a homebrew switch game, Nintendo would be all over that and it would be ended instantly.

Look at the classic mini. It has been hacked to play the entire nes library and doesn't seem like Nintendo even cares. The sites are still up w/the downloads. You Tube videos with links and so forth. I think the whole retro scene is a combination of Nintendo not caring about it and as some people put, it is good publicity and majority of it not really pertaining to Nintendo.

I was happy collecting my games before the internet made them worth so much. I use to collect sealed but that ended as reseals are so good now it is hard to tell them apart. Then the fakes of rare games. You have to open and inspect the boards and forget about labels. Having to use a black light and learn the ins and outs about how labels where made 30 years ago as compared to today to distinguish if you have original.

Now I soon as a game gets inflated I sell it. Collecting high priced games and determining if what you are buying is real or fake and then opening a return case and this and that, nope not me. I'm done with that. I leave that disaster to the hardcore collectors.

Dude come on. I help people with the hardware portion of stuff all the time. My labels set my games apart and help me distinguish what I made and what I did not. I am not telling people how I make my labels. I spent a lot of time and wasted a lot of money buying different products until I found something that was decent.

I am not selling my donors I spent years to accumulate before I dived into this either. I did not say I had an infinite supply, I showed you a picture of like a 100 carts. You act like you showed me everything there is to know. You did not. I invested about 3 months of my time and had already learned on my own a good portion to the point where I was able to make reproductions for nes and snes before I even mentioned it on AA and started talking to you.

I have a friend who use to make reproductions and he was well known on Nintendo Age and he helped me immensely when I started. If I owe anybody anything it is him. He gave me so much material and information that you can't really find these days including artwork for tons of snes games.

You did help me on a few things and I thanked you for it. The mirroring on DT2 was one. As far as the adapter boards wiz made you I did not get upset over him not selling me them and I most certainly did not expect him to sell me them chip.

I was very confused over why he even showed me the boards if he had no intentions on selling me them. He made an assumption I wanted him to sell me 10 when I gladly would have bought bulk. I painfully pieced together the pin-outs for it via the help of some people here and yes you. I had 1 pin connected wrong at the point you posted the pin-outs a few pages back. Yes you did help me on that.

I then invested the next month educating myself and learning how to use eaglecad and I designed my own adapter board and no I don't want to sell those as I had to spend $350 to buy a batch and I'm not looking at buying them again. Snes does not sell well and once they are gone they are gone. Nes doesn't sell well either to be honest.

Reproductions is dying emulation and everdrives and such make them irrelevant these days. I can't wait till the bubble pops so I can get back to my hoarding.

If you want to put the pirate repro scene behind you while still using the same skills and investment in materials, I know something you can try. Pull all your listings down, take a month's vacation, design a new logo, and offer your services to developers of "homebrew" (which I define as original unlicensed games) for NES to manufacture and distribute the games on cartridge. Yes, I'm aware that this might not be as effective for Super NES, as Optiroc and others have pointed out.

I don't ban people I think can turn around to the light side.

Honestly I had planned on it. I am in the process of finding new work and once I do I will not want to bother with the hassles associated with this.

I would consider homebrew work but it just doesn't seem like something I could rely on as a solid income.

I can't afford to take a month vacation right now though. I am going to get out of the pirated portion of it and probably close my etsy shop entirely. I think I will still leave my ebay listings up regardless as that's not looked at the same way. Those listings are hacks, translations of famicom games and mega drive and so forth. I don't think people have a problem w/those being sold, right?

And that's the ball game folks!

Man it's just fact. I need a full time job w/guaranteed work and reproductions in general does not seem like a solid income whether what I am selling now or homebrew for people.

I'm saying I would consider it but fact is I need to get a full time job and depending on what that entails I may not want to do any reproductions at all.

Unless I greatly underestimate the homebrew scene that just seems like side work to me?

Stop relying on repros as income and get a freaking job. Seriously.
It makes me mad that I helped people like you. I will never support people making repros to rip off people.

While I make repros as well (and I'm hell sure I'm not the only one here) I do not charge for them more than what they're worth plus I don't sell them on eBay and co. to get more for them.
I made my own boards and adapters for them as well without bothering people to make it for me. I learned how to work with Eagle.

My goal is to help people play those games that they want (translations of Japanese exclusives for example) for no profit at all, just helping out cause I love soldering.

Heck I even started 65c816 assembly back then but sadly never got around to make my own homebrew yet due to lack of motivation.

LOL. Don't let me sound ungrateful but please show me anything YOU posted that was actually helpful. Not a single bit of information you posted was accurate in regards to my questions. You kept speaking down to me every single reply assuming I was a complete idiot with no freaking clue what I was doing.

Your solutions was I was using the wrong pcb, or my wiring was bad and so on. Don't worry I will not ask for anyone's help on this site ever again. You have a set of morals that astound me. It's ok for YOU, its ok for SHAWN, it's ok for everyone else to make whatever games they feel are ok, regardless of the fact you are breaking copyright laws just the same. That Zelda parallel worlds is just as illegal to make as Hagane.

Shawn makes repros of rare games just as I do, so make sure you don't help him either. I mark my games as reproduction. If I didn't sell them marked people will buy them from others unmarked. That's a FACT, the sooner you learn that the better off you will be.

So let me get this straight you make your games for free? Good for you. I think you are a liar but whatever. It's ok for you and everyone else to sell your repros in private as long as nobody knows about it. Whatever. More hypocrites.

I do not have the time or desire for this. Do whatever you wish to my account. I will be logging off and not coming back regardless. Shawn thought he was hurting me by coming here and making this thread. This is juts a forum, at the end of the day real life, family, and bills are what matter. Keeping social appearances on a forum full of hypocrites not a priority.

Enjoy.

-While I don't know everything either, following schematics like the ones I posted isn't hard and they do work 100%.
That's not my fault if you can't read them and start other stuff with other diagrams that nobody mentiond.. I never spoke you down or make you look like an idiot, you did that part by yourself already.




-I never said it was okay, learn to read, once again. It's just the fact that people like you or anyone else who tries to make money/income/profit of repros are pissing me off as a collector. I'm happy repro prices are dropping.




-I don't know Shawn to judge him but if he does the same, amen.




- I don't recall saying I made my repros for free. LEARN TO READ. SERIOUSLY.
Calling me a liar cause you can't read? How ironic.
I said I do not make profit of my repros. People pay what the actual material cost is worth, no more no less. And yes I do only make them private. Reason is simple; too many jerks on eBay.




-Peace. Good luck finding help on other forums.

He's easily confused that just cause people can and\or have made "pirate" games that they must be just like him playing
Online Pirate WalMart. Myself, I've made a ton of games over the years for sure and won't say I haven't. As well as modding the hell out of systems, ect, ect. but I'm not running multiple online stores and being a scummy richard about it. My involvement in the hobby is just that, a hobby. It's not my job nor is it limited to pirating video games to make bank like that guy. He really doesn't get it that nobody is
looking to support his goals. Myself I've actually programmed my own games, sought licenses for IPs, bought and dumped unreleased prototypes for a couple systems to the public and had a really fun time doing it over the years. Even all that is just one part of my involvement and I'm surely not out for only #1 as I love sharing info and ideas with my peers as they have with me.