Swap RGB encoder?

hi there, I have a bunch of broken snes and snes jr. I was wondering if anyone, if possible, has swapped the Video encoder between a regular non 1chip snes (like S-enc or BA6595F) with an encoder from a jr S-RGB to get the best rgb output. This assuming the S-enc is the one actually adding the horizontal blurring on the output.

this is the best info I have found on each video encoder
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3525.0

To the best of my knowledge, the blurriness of the pre-1chip SNESes is actually due to the DACs inside PPU2, not the RGB-to-NTSC encoder.

that makes more sense.. well back to figuring out what the snes jr have broken lol..

I have two that are bugging me, the power is good in the fuse, switch, ac port, etc.. but when I switch it on id drops to 8.5v, the LM7805 only gets 8.5 and the output is 4.0v, I ordered a couple of LM7805 to test these two and a non 1chip snes that does the same. the power brick is good as it is the one I use on my rgb modded regular snes, which gets 9.04v on the LM7805 and output 5.0v
but I was wondering if any other component can be broken on the power schematic.

Uh. The 7805 should never both have a 4V drop and undervolt the output. I'd assume something's drawing way too much power, but then the fuse should blow... I'd think?

Put an ammeter in series with the power switch?

I did a test as you said on the switch and I only see 0.861A avg.. nothing out of ordinary and the fuse won't blow.. could it be the LM7805?

0.86A sounds really high to me? The canonical power supply (SNS-002) is only good for 850mA.

Is anything other than the 7805 getting conspicuously warm?

RGB from PPU output has fast rise times but really slow fall times, leading to blurry output.

Related to that, I did some measurements and made this page: http://www.chrismcovell.com/gotRGB/snesblur.html

Rise and fall times are both quick... enough. It's any transition to a mid-tone that takes forever. I don't know the electronic theory involved...

I don't know, that's a pretty bad rise time too. Even the bright one is fuzzy on both sides. Seems like a boost of high frequency content would do a lot for it.

Got to love this page!.. great page chris! I saw it for the first time a couple of days ago.

about other parts getting warm, I didn't find anything relative warm to touch at least, I kind of new into full blown electronic, so I have experience on the soldering side, reflow, eprom use, basic pcb design, and right now self learning a bit into the function of every component.

I measure the V on the power before turn it on at 13v, but once is switch it on goes to 8.65, what components can be responsible? the mini don't seem to have the diode, could the filter be responsible? I ordered some LM7805 just to keep some stock and replace to test, but if you recommend any other component swap let me know, I have 2 snes jr, one snes and one sfc (non-1chip), and all 3 do the same drop :/ but my working snes gets 9V and 5V... unfortunately I have only one power block at hand for now.


And chris unrelated question, I'm fairly new to oscilloscopes, and I wanted to be sure I'm outputting 0.7Vpp to the rgb lines, I have a nec xm29plus, and I follow the console to scart diagrams using custom cables and VGA ports on my consoles, everything works ok, no prob with brightness or contrast, only issue I had is sync, which from what I see the nec takes TTL and 75ohm, all consoles work ok in both settings, but the genesis only works on "high" (switch on the back to turn off the 75 ohm termination). If I followed the recommended caps/resistors added to the sync line (as seen on retrorgb) I wouldn't get an image/sync (on any console), so I guess is something related to SCART inputs only?

but well my question about the Oscilloscope, I have a tenma 72-720, analog, and I got to trigger the signal of a RGB line, used the tv filter, and got a dotted curved shaped like this /l/l/l and range seems to be inside the 1V.. hard to tell as this is analog.

do you know any step by step guide to measure Vpp on rgb? from where to connect the ground/probe to the shapes?

I'm probably the wrong person to ask about oscilloscopes and voltage testing for video. Perhaps others here have detailed advice?

That's mostly expected. Older external power supplies are often "unregulated", and the no-load voltage is often quite higher than the loaded voltage.

For the SNES, specifically, I'd still expect it to drop to 10V when the SNES is on instead of 8.65V, though. I guess I should actually test on my SNES...

Ok, so:
No-load voltage on my SNES, measuring ground plane to +ve side of the power switch: 13.69V
Load voltage on my SNES, same measurement points: 10.67V
Voltage out of regulator, when on: 5V

.... and now my SNES has stopped booting. Lovely. I was going to measure current next, but any result will be suspect.

A picture would be much more useful.

In general, component video should look something like this for composite, s-video/component luma, or sync-on-green. For Y-B, Y-R, R, B component, it should look similar, just without the square notches that go down.

If RGB was that bad, how bad was composite and RF for older SNES systems?

same measurement I get on my working SNES :/, I will wait for the regulator to test if there is any changes.

I do the oscilloscope test again this weekend

Not much of a difference, because the low bandwidth of composite produces a similar effect anyway.

Change the regulator and nothing, still 8.6-8.5 on the overall 9v lines, and 3.91v on the 5v lines.
I saw the reset button has 1.5 and when pushed 3.91 which I guess is normal behavior

Can't see to find the culprit any advice? I might open a new post too just so the title goes towards fixing these issues :/

Something's drawing more power than it should. Unfortunately, if nothing is obviously warm, it's going to be hard to figure out where it's going wrong.

Maybe one of the capacitors has gone bad...

What's incredible weird is that one of the mini worked before I Store it, the other regular snes a Gpm-02 and the other mini didn't work, but all 3 give the same voltage drop?? Could it be the power brick? I mean on my rgb snes it works ok. 9v and 5v..
arrggg where is all your spare parts when you need them.. unfortunately I only have one snes power brick right now at my place, been thinking of just Soldering another 12v or 9v and test it oit

That does sound like the reservoir cap in the AC brick being bad (huge 50/60Hz ripple on the output, which ends up causing similar symptoms you're having).

Well a bit of success, the consoles are good! yeih!... I wired my old power brick for the super famicom directly to the 7805 voltage regulator, all of them boot.. now wiring it to the solder points of the AC plug to see if it is actually the brick or something before the voltage regulator.

thanks for the info, I just tried the SFC power brick, which is a third party 9V and it worked also from the plug solder points, so going to open the super nintendo power brick and check what's going on or just go out and buy another one.

thanks all for your help!, is there a repair wiki for the snes like arcade otaku? so I can post my findings for future troubleshoot?

Update:
- the culprit was the big capacitor on the power brick. When I opened it up it looked brand new.. I was getting ready to discharge it and found the solder joints cracked.. I took the oportunity to desolder it test it.. it was ok.. resolder it and boom everything is working now!

Funny thing is that my rgb snes didn't work on composite, and sound was humming with fade sound...which I though has to do maybe with the current, I didn't notice it before as I was just using rgb video while installing my retro setup (sound was finished yesterday).

Wondering why it did get 9v and 5v from the regulator and showed a perfect rgb image. Maybe motherboard revision had something to do?